Tag Archives: Turbo Upgrade

Holset HX35 Turbine Housing Machining

Holset HX35 Turbine Housing Machining

At Turbo Lab we can Machine your HX35, H1C, or HX40 Turbine Housing to a larger Turbine Wheel. The Factory HX35 Turbine Wheel is 60mm x 70mm, and the Turbine Housing can be Machined to the HX40 64mm x 76mm and the HX40 67 mm x 76mm Turbine Wheel. Machining Your Turbine Housing for the Larger Turbine Wheel, will Help Lower EGTs, and Drive Pressure Significantly.

You Should Upgrade Your Turbine Wheel or Turbine Housing Size If you have Already Machined Your compressor Housing for an Hx40 60 x 86 Compressor Wheel or Larger. You need to use a Turbine Wheel in Sink with the Compressor Wheels Flow or close. The closer and Flow Rates the Compressor and Turbine Wheel are to each other the more Efficient your Turbo will be and the Faster It will Spool. If you use a 67 x 89 x 95 Billet Compressor Wheel then you Should use a 67mm x 76mm Turbine Wheel. If You use a 64mm x 76mm Turbine, You can Compensate by using a Larger Turbine Housing.

If You need us to Machine your HX35, H1C, or HX40 Turbine Housings, We can do that for You and we have all of our Programs on CNC.  You can Contact Us Here.

Subaru WRX Turbo Upgrade

Subaru WRX Turbo Upgrade

This is Our Subaru Wrx turbo Upgrade option for the Factory Turbochager, you must Provide a Core Turbo For This Service. We do the TDO4HL Upgrade For $550 (50x62x65 bcw and 45 52 9 Blade TW).

Here are Larger Turbo Upgrade Options That We Build Brand New.

Subaru STI, Legacy GT, WRX Turbo Upgrade Options

We Also Build Larger Turbos 16g, 20g, and Larger For $650 without Wastegate or set up for External Wastegate and $700 with an Internal Wastegate Actuator. (You do not have to provide a core turbo for the 20g turbos or larger, we build new units.)

  • 16g 48.3mm x 68mm compressor wheel / tdo5h 12 or 9 Blade Turbine Wheel 375-400hp
  • 18g 50 x 68mm compressor wheel / tdo5h 12 or 9 Blade Turbine Wheel 400-425hp
  • 20g 52.6mm x 68mm / tdo5h 12 or 9 Blade Turbine Wheel / TDO6SL2/TDO6/TDO6H 400-450hp

TDO6, TDO6sl2, TDO6H Series ($800 without Wastegate Actuator $850 With) 

  • 56 x 76 x 79  7+7 Blade Billet Compressor Wheel /TDO6, TDO6SL2, or TDO6 500hp
  • 58 x76 x 80  11 blade GTX3076r Compressor Wheel / TDO6H Turbine 550hp+
  • 60.27 x 82 x 83  7+7 Blade Billet Compressor Wheel / TDO6H 9 blade 600hp+
  • 60.5 x 78 x 83 5+5, 6+6, or 11 blade 25g Billet Compressor Wheel / TDO6H 9 blade 600hp+

Turbine Wheel Upgrade Options:

  • TDO5H 49mm x 56mm 12 or 9 blade
  • TDO6SL2 54mm x 61mm 11 or 9 blade
  • TDO6 55mm x 65mm 12 blade
  • TDO6H 58.8 x 67.2 11, 9 blade unclipped, 9 blade clipped (I recommend 9 blade clipped or unclipped because it’s 100 grams lighter than the 11 blade)

Contact Us For a Turbo Build: turbolabamerica@gmail.com

Holset HE351 Turbo Upgrade

Watch as I present a Holset HE351 Turbo that I converted to a 67mm x 89mm x 95mm.  The New Specs are:

  • Compressor Wheel: 67mm x 89mm x 95mm
  • Turbine Shaft: 67mm x 76mm
  • Turbine housing 9cm^2

This Turbo is Rated at 850 HP capable at higher boost levels on a Gas Engine.

The Original HE351 Specs are:

  • Compressor Wheel: 60mm x 86mm
  • Turbine Shaft: 58mm x 70mm
  • Turbine housing 9cm^2

The Original HE341 Specs are:

  • Compressor Wheel: 54mm x 78mm or 56mm x 78mm
  • Turbine Shaft: 58mm x 70mm
  • Turbine housing 9cm^2

If You Would Like to Find Out What We Can Upgrade Your Turbo, Then Search the Site. If You Cannot Find  the Information You are Looking for Then Contact Us Here.

Billet Compressor Wheel

bullet2 billet wheel

       With more and more billet compressor wheels on the turbo market than ever, people raise the question: Is it worth it? The truth is it depends on the billet wheel. The first reason for billet wheels was for making a light weight compressor wheel out of a solid piece of aluminum for spool time and over all flow. PTE has the lightest billet compressor wheels on the turbo market today, because they actually remove the most metal from the wheel than any other companies, but they are commonly known for thrust bearing problems which i will explain in another article. Our extended tip compressor wheels are capable of generating more air flow because of the higher blades, however the extended tip wheels are heavier than the regular cast wheels by about 10 grams, but they are worth it because of the wheel capturing more air.  These wheels are machined with a 5 axis endmill which precisely cuts the wheel from a solid piece of aluminum.  These wheels range from 120 to 400$. The batmowheel billet wheel has proved to flow well, the wheel was derived from GE jet engines from air planes. This shape of the wheel was created to allow air to easily flow behind each blade in front of it. The tips are also extended to grab extra air, just like GE’s jet engines.

 

 billet wheels


The reason for changing the number compressor blades is to determine at what rpm the turbo will flow the most air. The less number of blades the more air it will flow at higher boost levels compared to a compressor wheel with more blades. A compressor wheel with more blades will flow very well at higher boost levels(~30 psi) but will not flow as well at lower boost levels. The Lower the blade count on the compressor wheel will help the turbo flow more air than the same compressor wheel with more blades. The more blades on a compressor wheel will help the compressor wheel have a peak flow at lower boost levels (20-25 psi). However some companies have started to make compressor wheels taller to allow a compressor wheel with more blades to grab more air and to flow better at higher boost levels as well. You will see taller 11 blade compressor wheels in the GTX series compressor wheels which are created by garret. The higher the blade count also helps with spool time, because it captures more air at lower rpm of the turbo.  The choice of compressor wheel depends on the what your goals are as far as spool time and the boost level that you plan to run. google622582fe1d69e3ee

What to do to Help your Turbo Last Longer

Turbo Failure

       To get the most life out of your turbocharger it is very important to understand how turbochargers fail. The most common reason for failure is the seals leaking in the turbocharger because of wear.  Shutting your engine off immediately after hauling heavy loads in your truck or doing hard pulls in your car, causes the oil on the turbine to dry up. The next time your start the vehicle the turbocharger will experience a dry start and this is what causes the wear.  If you allow your engine to idle after putting your vehicle under extreme loads, the engine oil will circulate and take away the heat in the engine and turbo charger. The recommended idle time is 1 to 5 minutes depending on how hard you push your car or trucTo get the most life out of your turbocharger it is very important to understand how turbochargers fail. The most common reason for failure is the seals leaking in the turbocharger because of wear.  Shutting your engine off immediately after hauling heavy loads in your truck or doing hard pulls in your car, causes the oil on the turbine to dry up. The next time your start the vehicle the turbocharger will experience a dry start and this is what causes the wear.  If you allow your engine to idle after putting your vehicle under extreme loads, the engine oil will circulate and take away the heat in the engine and turbo charger. The recommended idle time is 1 to 5 minutes depending on how hard you push your car or truck.

Lack of Lubrication

        The next common  cause of failure of your turbo is running to thin of oil. The thicker the oil the better the protection in higher heat conditions. The thinner oil is for extreme cold conditions. The oil weight for your engine is just as important for your turbo, and you should go by what the manufacture recommends. For race car applications, its important to go with racing oil.  I have one customer that lives in the  below  0°F temperature, and he would put 5w 30 motor oil in it in the winter, which is fine for those temperatures, but when summer came around every year, his turbo would fail.  The manufacture of his turbo recommends 10w 30 year round.

How does oil contamination damage turbos?

       Oil contamination is another common cause of failure of turbochargers. Oil contamination can be carbon, sludge, metal flake, or dirt which gets in the turbocharger and clogs up the thrust bearing and causes in and out play, or locks up a bearing and shaft and causes the shaft to break. The most common problem of oil contamination is metal flake and carbon clogging up the thrust bearing of a turbo. I have also seen parts of stripped threads inside a thrust bearing.  To help prevent oil contamination you can run the oil pressure from the oil filter housing directly to the turbocharger. Most contaminates in the oil are found in the cylinder head, by taking oil straight from the oil filter you are taking the cleanest oil available and bypassing the cylinder head.  When a turbo blows oil it puts your engine and its components at high risk for failure, because the oil pressure become lower.  Also when the oil level gets to so low that the oil pressure becomes non-existant.     

As turbochargers can operate at over 240,000 rpm and temperatures of 950°C, turbo bearings are under great stress. The turbine shaft and bearings rotate in a thin film of oil. Consequently any fault with the oil supply to the turbo means its bearings are likely to fail before the engine’s main bearings. Running a turbo without oil for five seconds is more harmful as a motor running without oil for five minutes. Since the turbo spins over 39 times faster than an engine, you will see a turbo fail 39 times soon than the engine. When a turbo blows oil it puts your engine and its components at high risk for failure, because the oil pressure become lower.  Also when the oil level gets to so low that the oil pressure becomes non-existant.  When a turbo is leaking oil, it also is causing a drop in oil pressure to the rest of the engine. This concept can be compared to a water hose being sprayed, if you poke a hole in the hose, the water will still be sprayed out of the hose but the pressure is much lower.

.      While it is important to check the engine oil pressure meets the manufacturer’s specifications, it is even more critical that the oil feed lines to the turbo are clean and clear, so you are certain they can supply uncontaminated oil, at the correct pressure. Contaminated or dirty oil will scratch or score the bearings, leading to rapid wear and ultimately, turbocharger failure.  95% of turbo failures are because of problems with oil starvation, oil contamination or foreign object damage.

 

 What causes contaminated oil?

       A blocked, damaged oil filter, carbon build-up in the engine, engine parts transfer over from a blown engine, and accidental contamination of new oil during servicing.such as a cylinder head are all often causes of repeated oil contamination causing even new turbo chargers to blow oil immediately after install. This can rapidly contaminate even new oil.  On some vehicles, the oil bypasses the oil filter above 4500 rpm to provide better oil flow to the engine. Another type of oil contamination is gasoline or coolant. Having gasoline in the oil is often caused from worn spark plugs not burning the fuel off or from acids that build up in the oil from use causing premature wear from not changing the oil on time.  Coolant in your engine oil is just as damaging as pouring water in your engine oil and expecting the water to lubricate the engine parts. The coolant in the engine can cause the engine or turbo charger to hydro-lock.

Preventing turbo failure

• Always use fresh oil, the correct oil weight, and new oil filters as recommended by the engine manufacturer when installing a new turbo. We do not recommend using an inline filter in the oil feed line of the turbo charger because it can clog and cause problems, the best way is to run your oil feed line straight a location where oil has just pass through the oil filter. Often if there is something wrong with the motor’s oil pressure, regardless if the turbo that you install is good, it will blow oil.  Clean or replace oil feed and return lines to eliminate any carbon deposits or sludge that can enter the turbo or restrict the oil flow to the bearings. Before installing a new turbo, find out what caused the first turbo to fail or you risk the replacement turbo failing too.

       Turbo Lab supplies remanufactured replacement turbochargers, made by the original manufacturers to the highest quality standards. Though we confidently guarantee them, our standard warranty does not cover turbocharger failure caused by oil contamination or lack of oil.

 

 

 

What you need to know when upgrading your turbo

turbo_cutaway

       It is very important to know the basics of how a turbocharger works as well as what you are trying to achieve before you send your turbo in for upgrading.  The most important concept is to understand is that you want to build a turbo that has a compressor and turbine wheel with very similar flow rates. To achievethis, the compressor and turbine wheels should have measurements that are very close in size. The inducer of the compressor wheel and exducer of the turbine wheel are the measurements you want close in size. turbo measurements2 The inducer is the measurement of the wheel where the air enters, and the exducer is the measurement of where the air exits. Having less blades on the turbine wheel will help increase flow for a turbine shaft that has a limited measurement. A good example is a 20T compressor upgrade that measures 50 mm x 61 mm, but the biggest turbine upgrade available is the tdo4HL turbine which measures 45.6 mm x 52 mm. The tdo4HL turbine is offered in 12 blade from factory, however we can offer it in 11 blade, and I have also seen it offered in 9 blade too. The 50 mm 20T would have surge issues with the small turbine in 12 blade form, but when the 11 or 9 blade are used, the flow rate of the turbine is more closely match to the 50 mm compressor wheel which being a 45.6mm wheel. Turbine clipping offers the same effect as going with less blades, but instead of going with less blades, the blades are trimmed back to all for more air flow to pass by the turbine wheel. It is always better to go with a turbine that is closer in size to the compressor wheel if it is possible, but it is not always possible. When trying to match a turbine wheel to a compressor wheel that you have already chosen and the inducer measurements of the compressor wheel are inbetween the sizes of two different turbine upgrade sizes and you cant decide which one to go with, always go with the bigger turbine shaft. Turbos work better with an oversized turbine shaft than an oversized compressor wheel. A turbo with a bigger turbine exducer measurement will help prevent surge and support the flow of the smaller compressor rather than using a smaller turbine that will choke it. A good example is if your using a 56mm compressor wheel and the turbine choices are a tdo6h 58mm x 67mm and tdo6 55mm x 61mm, then go with the tdo6h turbine, or you could go with a tdo6 turbine that is clipped or has 11 blades instead of 12.

 

Boost Control Explained

 

 

       internalwg2Boost creep– Boost creep is caused when a free flowing exhaust system is put on a turbo charged car. When revving out to higher rpms your boost pressure(psi) will rise as your rpms of the motor rise. This happens because the waste gate passage can not flow enough air to by pass the turbo to control the boost efficiently. The reason why this happens when you change out the exhaust to a free flowing exhaust is because you the smaller exhaust provided back pressure which caused resistance to flow air passed the turbine wheel.

 

External WG

How to fix this: You can port the waste gate flapper area and add a bigger flapper valve to help prevent boost creep, but the best way is to go external waste gate and select the appropriate waste gate spring for the boost level that you plan to run. We find that it works best that the wastegate spring base pressure should be half or more than the boost pressure that you plan to run. So if you are running 30 psi, then you should have a 15 psi wastegate actuator.  The problems with porting the flapper hole and adding a bigger flapper is that it makes it harder to run higher boost levels. Dsm guys will see that there boost level will spike to their set boost level (lets say 20 psi), then when their rpms increase the flapper valve will have a hard time closing, because of the increased surface area of the bigger flapper valve in combination with the waste gate base spring pressure being to low, which makes the flapper struggle to shut to control the massive amount of air pressure that is coming through the turbine housing. When the valve is having a hard time closing it is releasing more pressure out of the turbine housing than it is supposed to their for even though your boost level is set to 20 psi it will fall off to 16 psi and hold a lower boost level to redline. The best way to go is to go external waste gate.