Here are Larger Turbo Upgrade Options That We Build Brand New.
Subaru STI, Legacy GT, WRX Turbo Upgrade Options
We Also Build Larger Turbos 16g, 20g, and Larger For $650 without Wastegate or set up for External Wastegate and $700 with an Internal Wastegate Actuator. (You do not have to provide a core turbo for the 20g turbos or larger, we build new units.)
16g 48.3mm x 68mm compressor wheel / tdo5h 12 or 9 Blade Turbine Wheel 375-400hp
18g 50 x 68mm compressor wheel / tdo5h 12 or 9 Blade Turbine Wheel 400-425hp
20g 52.6mm x 68mm / tdo5h 12 or 9 Blade Turbine Wheel / TDO6SL2/TDO6/TDO6H 400-450hp
TDO6, TDO6sl2, TDO6H Series ($800 without Wastegate Actuator $850 With)
56 x 76 x 79 7+7 Blade Billet Compressor Wheel /TDO6, TDO6SL2, or TDO6 500hp
20g 52.6mm x 68mm Compressor and 49 x 56mm Turbine
SL2 20g 52.6mm x 68mm Compressor and 54 x 61mm Turbine
SL2 EF3 56 x 76mm Compressor and 54 x 61mm Turbine (9 Blade)
TDO6 EF3 56 x 76mm Compressor and 55 x 65mm Turbine (12 Blade)
500 – 625 HP
TDO6H GTX3076R 58mm x 76mm and 58.8 x 67.2 Turbine (9 or 11 blade) (550HP)
TDO6H EF4 60.27 x 82 x 83mm 7blade and 58.8 x 67.2 Turbine (9 or 11 blade) (580 +HP)
TDO6H 25g 60.5 x 78 x 83mm (5, 6, or 11 blade) and 58.8 x 67.2 Turbine (9 or 11 blade)580+HP
TDO6H GTX3582R 62.35 x 82 x 86mm 11 blade and 58.8 x 67.2 Turbine (9 or 11 blade)600+HP
To Install this Turbo You May Need TDO5 Coolant Line Install Kit, Because The thread Pitch of the TDO4 and VF turbos for the Coolant is Different than the MHI TDO5 TDO6 Which is M14 x 1.5. You can buy this coolant kit on ebay Here. (turbo oil feed line water pipe install gasket kit for subaru EJ20 EJ25)
NOTE: 2011+ Year STI Requires Rotation kit to install the turbo upgrade with the 3″ inlet compressor Housing. You must use the 3″ compressor housing for the Compressor wheels 56mm and Larger.
If You would like for us to build you a turbo like this you can contact us at email@example.com
With more and more billet compressor wheels on the turbo market than ever, people raise the question: Is it worth it? The truth is it depends on the billet wheel. The first reason for billet wheels was for making a light weight compressor wheel out of a solid piece of aluminum for spool time and over all flow. PTE has the lightest billet compressor wheels on the turbo market today, because they actually remove the most metal from the wheel than any other companies, but they are commonly known for thrust bearing problems which i will explain in another article. Our extended tip compressor wheels are capable of generating more air flow because of the higher blades, however the extended tip wheels are heavier than the regular cast wheels by about 10 grams, but they are worth it because of the wheel capturing more air. These wheels are machined with a 5 axis endmill which precisely cuts the wheel from a solid piece of aluminum. These wheels range from 120 to 400$. The batmowheel billet wheel has proved to flow well, the wheel was derived from GE jet engines from air planes. This shape of the wheel was created to allow air to easily flow behind each blade in front of it. The tips are also extended to grab extra air, just like GE’s jet engines.
The reason for changing the number compressor blades is to determine at what rpm the turbo will flow the most air. The less number of blades the more air it will flow at higher boost levels compared to a compressor wheel with more blades. A compressor wheel with more blades will flow very well at higher boost levels(~30 psi) but will not flow as well at lower boost levels. The Lower the blade count on the compressor wheel will help the turbo flow more air than the same compressor wheel with more blades. The more blades on a compressor wheel will help the compressor wheel have a peak flow at lower boost levels (20-25 psi). However some companies have started to make compressor wheels taller to allow a compressor wheel with more blades to grab more air and to flow better at higher boost levels as well. You will see taller 11 blade compressor wheels in the GTX series compressor wheels which are created by garret. The higher the blade count also helps with spool time, because it captures more air at lower rpm of the turbo. The choice of compressor wheel depends on the what your goals are as far as spool time and the boost level that you plan to run. google622582fe1d69e3ee
It is very important to know the basics of how a turbocharger works as well as what you are trying to achieve before you send your turbo in for upgrading. The most important concept is to understand is that you want to build a turbo that has a compressor and turbine wheel with very similar flow rates. To achievethis, the compressor and turbine wheels should have measurements that are very close in size. The inducer of the compressor wheel and exducer of the turbine wheel are the measurements you want close in size. The inducer is the measurement of the wheel where the air enters, and the exducer is the measurement of where the air exits. Having less blades on the turbine wheel will help increase flow for a turbine shaft that has a limited measurement. A good example is a 20T compressor upgrade that measures 50 mm x 61 mm, but the biggest turbine upgrade available is the tdo4HL turbine which measures 45.6 mm x 52 mm. The tdo4HL turbine is offered in 12 blade from factory, however we can offer it in 11 blade, and I have also seen it offered in 9 blade too. The 50 mm 20T would have surge issues with the small turbine in 12 blade form, but when the 11 or 9 blade are used, the flow rate of the turbine is more closely match to the 50 mm compressor wheel which being a 45.6mm wheel. Turbine clipping offers the same effect as going with less blades, but instead of going with less blades, the blades are trimmed back to all for more air flow to pass by the turbine wheel. It is always better to go with a turbine that is closer in size to the compressor wheel if it is possible, but it is not always possible. When trying to match a turbine wheel to a compressor wheel that you have already chosen and the inducer measurements of the compressor wheel are inbetween the sizes of two different turbine upgrade sizes and you cant decide which one to go with, always go with the bigger turbine shaft. Turbos work better with an oversized turbine shaft than an oversized compressor wheel. A turbo with a bigger turbine exducer measurement will help prevent surge and support the flow of the smaller compressor rather than using a smaller turbine that will choke it. A good example is if your using a 56mm compressor wheel and the turbine choices are a tdo6h 58mm x 67mm and tdo6 55mm x 61mm, then go with the tdo6h turbine, or you could go with a tdo6 turbine that is clipped or has 11 blades instead of 12.
Boostcreep– Boost creep is caused when a free flowing exhaust system is put on a turbo charged car. When revving out to higher rpms your boost pressure(psi) will rise as your rpms of the motor rise. This happens because the waste gate passage can not flow enough air to by pass the turbo to control the boost efficiently. The reason why this happens when you change out the exhaust to a free flowing exhaust is because you the smaller exhaust provided back pressure which caused resistance to flow air passed the turbine wheel.
How to fix this: You can port the waste gate flapper area and add a bigger flapper valve to help prevent boost creep, but the best way is to go external waste gate and select the appropriate waste gate spring for the boost level that you plan to run. We find that it works best that the wastegate spring base pressure should be half or more than the boost pressure that you plan to run. So if you are running 30 psi, then you should have a 15 psi wastegate actuator. The problems with porting the flapper hole and adding a bigger flapper is that it makes it harder to run higher boost levels. Dsm guys will see that there boost level will spike to their set boost level (lets say 20 psi), then when their rpms increase the flapper valve will have a hard time closing, because of the increased surface area of the bigger flapper valve in combination with the waste gate base spring pressure being to low, which makes the flapper struggle to shut to control the massive amount of air pressure that is coming through the turbine housing. When the valve is having a hard time closing it is releasing more pressure out of the turbine housing than it is supposed to their for even though your boost level is set to 20 psi it will fall off to 16 psi and hold a lower boost level to redline. The best way to go is to go external waste gate.